A hand-painted Rolls-Royce. It’s both fact and joke, and it echoes the “luscious-meets-sexy-meets-wacky vibe” that Dimayuga embodies. “...hidden behind the heroic narratives is a darker, more troubling story of ‘revenge ops,’ unjustified killings, mutilations, and other atrocities — a pattern of criminal violence that emerged soon after the Afghan war began and was tolerated and covered up by the command’s leadership.” This podcast with the author is a good appetizer for the piece. “We are so unmoored,” writes Wilson, “that we will put our faith in any master who promises that we, too, can become pure and good.” At best, this puritanical diet leads to snide remarks at the gym; at worst, it develops into anorexia and orthorexia. This is my annual attempt to bring roughly 100 of those stories to a wider audience. Nearly a year later, as the state has been incinerated by historically terrible wildfires, it’s all too clear that Gleick was right. Wilson’s exploration of “clean eating,” the latest in a long line of semi-religious food fads, quietly but devastatingly exposes the flaws in the movement. This is one of my favourite Portuguese desserts, which is made from just egg yolks, sugar, a touch of flour and a rich Portuguese olive oil. We’d love your help. Jerusalem artichokes have an incredible sweet, nutty flavour and when they are griddled until they are crispy they are delicious. But his wrath was swift and often fiercely personal, according to interviews with multiple former employees.”, THE CUT / Why the Harvey Weinstein Sexual-Harassment Allegations Didn’t Come Out Until Now, Your Reckoning and Mine, and What Are the Lessons of the Post-Weinstein Moment? Should old time recipes be changed or should you leave them as is? The book’s namesake dish, potlikker, is itself a microcosm of the book’s subject: In the antebellum South, slave owners would eat greens prepared for them by enslaved cooks, leaving the broth—potlikker—for their chattel. Keep up-to-date on: © 2020 Smithsonian Magazine. It is the essential source of information and ideas that make sense of a world in constant transformation. THE NEW YORK TIMES / A Requiem for Girls, Speaking Ill of Hugh Hefner and The Muggle Problem by Ross Douthat, THE NEW YORK TIMES / Love’s Road Home by C.J. What was it about this year? Once a tie to her community and culture, they either became fetishized by culinary explorers or are forgotten by the younger generation who are, “opening restaurants using Texas flavors and American marketing — no sudden phulkas or honor payments,” like the Indian restaurants she grew up sneaking into. The Best Food Writing We Read in 2017. In fact, the most basic of bodily functions is such a potent force that it causes even the most disciplined, trained bodies in the world to do some wonderfully weird and occasionally revolting things.”, 3 QUARKS DAILY / Ten Minutes Difference by Paul Braterman, “If the meteorite had arrived ten minutes earlier, or ten minutes later, it would still no doubt have inflicted devastation, but the dinosaurs would still be here.”, THE GUARDIAN / The School Beneath the Wave by Richard Lloyd Parry, CITY JOURNAL / The Corruption of Public Health by John Tierney, “The e-cigarette delivers nicotine in vapor without the hundreds of toxins and dozens of carcinogens in cigarettes, eliminating at least 95 percent of the harm of smoking, according to England’s national health agency. We owe these people. In The Cooking Gene, food historian Michael W. Twitty traces his ancestry, both white and black, through the foods of his ancestors. This food-loving demographic was also more likely to describe street food as exciting (80%), authentic (78%) and high quality (72%). For the British fixer Scot Young, working for Vladimir Putin's most vocal critic meant stunning perks – but also constant danger. The Royal College of Physicians warned that it would be ‘unjust, irrational and immoral’ for public officials to discourage smokers from switching forms of nicotine. Not only are restaurants rushing to mimic the flavours of street food – Dishoom, Wahaca and Masala Zone are among the high-profile examples – but retail is now getting in on the act. One year I was looking for a fish dish to put on our Christmas menu. For a long time, that was all I needed.”, THE NEW YORK TIMES / She Was Convicted of Killing Her Mother. The author of Frommer's 500 Places for Food and Wine Lovers, she lives in New York City. Bring to a boil on high heat, skimming away scum from the surface, then add the onion, salt, spices, bay leaf and tomato paste, if using, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Follow these steps to minimize the damage. Each year, I keep a running list of nonfiction that I encounter as I publish The Best of Journalism, a weekly email newsletter that I curate. There’s plenty of cultural history, too, with guides to the city’s neighbourhoods and surfing beaches just along the coast.Buy it for: anyone thinking of a weekend break because they’ve heard Lisbon is hip, Mitchell Beazley, £25Subtitled “traditional Ghanaian recipes remixed for the modern kitchen”, this is a compelling exploration of Adjonyoh’s Ghanaian/Irish heritage, featuring many dishes from the south London restaurant that made her name.Buy it for: Adjonyoh’s trademark jollof fried chicken, Phaidon, £24.95Having grown up in Jerusalem and moved to the US, here Kassis rediscovers her culture and identity through her mother’s za’atar-filled flatbreads and crisp rice-stuffed chicken. Best Food Writing 2017 Add a tablespoon of the butter to the same frying pan and gently sauté the chestnuts for around 10 minutes until they are tender and evenly browned. Yes, there’s another book about Southern cuisine in this list, which only hits home the cultural moment this group of food traditions is having. We continue watching, separating the artist from the art. You’ll never look at baking powder quite the same way again. Toss with the reserved vinegar and the rest of the olive oil, then add the pea shoots. Pour the vinegar into a dish, put in the artichokes, cover with clingfilm and leave to marinate for 2 hours, turning them every so often. Whose food is it? Evans nails a profile of a seemingly uncategorizable person by exploring her resistance to categories and generalizations, which makes Evans more than just a writer, but a thinker. There is a beguiling casualness to the (lack of) structure of this book other than a classy collection of good things to eat. Baked cod with chestnuts, parsley and bacon. You’ll find interesting articles to read on topics like how to stop procrastinating as well as personal recommendations like my list of the best books to read and my minimalist travel guide . Photographs From the Last Quiet Places on Earth. Maftool – gorgeous caviar-size pearls made of whole wheat – is one of the most distinctively Palestinian dishes you will find. She talks about Mission Chinese as a queer restaurant, which in our current environment of sexual harassment reckonings. Her voice is clear, engaging, and tempered with compassion. Best universities for graduate jobs: Global University Employability Ranking 2017 Despite being online for only a couple of months, this ranking of the best universities for employability still made its way into the top 10 along with many of the specific articles for each country, such as the best universities for employability in the UK , US and Australia . I grew up in Shijiazhuang, a city renowned for being the headquarters of the company that produced toxic infant formula. By Max Falkowitz. To make the nine-spice mix, place all the ingredients in a large frying pan over medium-low heat. Flooded with knowledge of the maker’s monstrousness, we turn away, overcome by disgust. THE VERGE / Diary of a Concussion by Elizabeth Lopatto, “If I thought I was my brain, probably I would have found the injury more upsetting. Just one of the cool and interesting tidbits I picked up from this collection of food related essays. Although it was very interesting, It was not a book that I could just sit and read through. Alternatively roast in a medium oven for 15 minutes, or simmer in boiling water for 15 minutes. Rinse the pork thoroughly and pat very dry. At stake is not only one’s girth, or the management of allergies and sensitivities, but morality itself. A post shared by NYT Food (@nytfood) on Sep 29, 2017 at 10:24am PDT During a week of tragedies and sad news, NPR has discovered a cardinal rule of life: Pie brings people together . It made me think of Laurie Colwin’s famous catalog of kitchen disasters, but it’s also its own thing, a classic to be admired and emulated. Those were the places where, “To eat was to fantasize, as if watching a movie about teens in India; we tapped the live heart of a country where we looked like everyone else, where we could be part of instead of standing outside.”, The way some people get excited when they smell freshly baked cookies or pies is how I get when there’s some vegetable or herb others might consider stinky floating in the air. What is the ethical obligation of those who choose to capitalize on deeply-rooted, traditional flavor profiles and time-honored preparations in an effort to launch into the stratosphere of culinary renown? Through 20 meals spanning 450 years and ranging from the Far East to the New World, historian Lizzie Collingham tells the story of the world from a different vantage point: An empire ruled by the conquest of maize, tea and more. Articles written about every aspect of food. An exorbitantly wealthy microclique, backed by an army of personal chefs, swears by a sandwich whose standard ingredients boast a street value of roughly 69 cents.”, THE GUARDIAN / How the Sandwich Consumed Britain by Sam Knight, “The world-beating British sandwich industry is worth £8bn a year. Maftool with butternut, chickpea and chicken stew. (If you can’t fathom regretting that appetizer of baba ghanoush, someone is ready to teach you how for a price.) Serves 6jerusalem artichokes 1kg, largesea salt and freshly ground black pepperextra virgin olive oil 80mlpinot grigio or other subtle white wine vinegar 150mlgolden, white and purple heritage carrots 200g of eachpea shoots 300g. She couldn’t have seen the detours ahead. Privacy Statement Vigneron combines the best of both worlds — food writing and crime — to tell the incredible tale of one serious nut job. Then he came back—and decided to risk Lava again.”, SHTETL-OPTIMIZED / The Kolmogorov Option by Scott Arronson, “Attacked by a stranger in Mexico City, Andrea just wants to figure out who the guy was. California Do Not Sell My Info We eat it wrong. In The Potlikker Papers, the godfather of Southern food writing, John T. Edge, takes readers through the history of the modern South as revealed through its many dishes, ingredients and culinary figures. “The octopus threatens boundaries.” For more on these unusually fascinating creatures see this Scientific American article by Peter Godfrey Smith. In November Antonio García Martínez, who was the first ads targeting product manager on Facebook’s ads team, wrote that Facebook isn’t eavesdropping on its users through their smartphones’ microphones. Do Crows Possess a Form of Consciousness? That Must Stop Now, A Murder Case Tests Alexa's Devotion to Your Privacy. Rinse and pat dry. Holly Hughes has edited the annual Best Food Writing series since its inception in 2000. It’s an instruction manual, complete with beautifully illustrated charts and tables, but a romantic one, the author in love with the act of cooking and eager for the reader to feel just as much joy (while picking up new skills along the way).Buy it for: the flavour wheel that helps balance herbs and spices from around the world, 4th Estate, £26There’s something of the kitchen diary about Jones’s third book of vegetarian recipes. The WIRED conversation illuminates how technology is changing every aspect of our lives—from culture to business, science to design. Sign up to get the week’s best Longreads delivered to your inbox every Friday afternoon. And eight dead friends. In Galilee, people tend to make them larger and call them moghrabieh, while in central and southern Palestine they are made as small as caviar and called maftool. Here is the best in food writing. Cook the artichokes in boiling salted water for about 1 hour (depending on the size), until tender but still firm. Angela Dimayuga Is Here From the Future to Save Us All, Christ in the Garden of Endless Breadsticks, Searching for John Hughes Or Everything I Thought I Needed to Know about Life I Learned from Watching ’80s Movies, An Elegy for Dallas Strip Mall Restaurants, Friends: We Need Your Help to Fund More Stories. She shows how closely what we put into our mouths is bound up with our identities and unspoken aspirations, and how easily self-proclaimed experts can play on our insecurities and doubts. Store in the refrigerator once cut. But, as civil attorney Gerald Sauer explained in a February piece, smart home devices’ microphones can also effectively collect evidence that can be used against their owners in court. Not to mention pasta so great they opened another restaurant, the phenomenally successful Padella, to sell that alone.Buy it for: the pici cacio e pepe, Fig Tree, £25Debut cookbook from the former executive head chef of the all-conquering Barrafina who’s about to open her own restaurant, also called Sabor (it means “flavour” in Spanish). That’s why the palace has a plan.”, TASTE / Bread Soup from the Lost Years by Fred Hocker, “Nostalgia can hurtle into the present and, through taste, you see the present and past align. And then there’s Sir Ian McKellen. The harder it may be to have reasoned dialogues about matters of importance in our soci- ety, the more crucial it is for professors to practice doing so with their students.”, VULTURE / The Toxic Drama of YA Twitter by Kat Rosenfield, “Young-adult books are being targeted in intense social-media callouts, draggings, and pile-ons — sometimes before anybody’s even read them.”, THIS AMERICAN LIFE / Our Town Parts One and Two by Miki Meek, “We’ve visited Albertville, Alabama to figure out what happened when the population shifted from 98% white in 1990 to a fourth Latino twenty years later.”, NATIONAL REVIEW / Stop Obsessing Over Race and IQ by John McWhorter, “There is no apparent benefit to dwelling on the IQ gap.”, THE AMERICAN SCHOLAR / Against Solidarity by Emily Fox Gordon, “As a writer, with a writer’s chronic need for detachment, I have avoided the ideology of gender.”, THE NEW YORKER / Harvey Weinstein’s Accusers Tell Their Stories by Ronan Farrow, “Multiple women share harrowing accounts of sexual assault and harassment by the film executive.”, THE NEW YORK TIMES / Harvey Weinstein’s Complicity Machine by Megan Twohey, Jodi Kantor, Susan Dominus, Jim Rutenberg, and Steve Eder, “The producer relied on powerful relationships across industries to provide him with cover as accusations of sexual misconduct piled up for decades.”, THE WASHINGTON POST / Eight women say Charlie Rose sexually harassed them by Irin Carmon and Amy Brittain, “The ‘Charlie Rose’ show prides itself on its highbrow intellectual ambition, but his life is glamorous, full of black-tie galas and famous friends. Instead, they put low-level users in prison for most of their lives.”, SLATE STAR CODEX & THE NEW YORK TIMES / Considerations on Cost Disease by Scott Alexander and The Most Expensive Mile of Subway Track on Earth by Brian Rosenthal, THE NEW YORK TIMES / To Obama With Love, Hate, and Desperation by Jeanne Marie Laskas, “The White House mailroom read the unfiltered story of a nation.”, NATIONAL REVIEW / Ten Years Ago Today by David French, “I was praying fervently for peace—and not receiving it. © 2020 Condé Nast. Articles written about every aspect of food. For the parsley purée: bring a large pan of water to a boil. I cut him off without explaining why.”, THE NEW YORK TIMES MAGAZINE / A Small Town Police Officer’s War on Drugs by Benjamin Rachlin, “New Hampshire has the second-highest rate of drug overdoses in the country. I become so angry I stop cooking for him. Drain under cold water to stop them cooking further, then peel and slice 1cm thick. Equifax deserves the corporate death penalty for failing to protect consumers' personal information, argued contributor Ron Fein in one of this year's most-read Opinion pieces. None of the stings have yielded evidence of anything like a problem on that scale.”, THE CHRONICLE OF HIGHER EDUCATION / Eyewitness to a Title IX Witch Hunt by Laura Kipnis, “Torch the miscreant, resanctify the community. Upon reaching that moment, it will no longer be possible to understand the universe’s history—or perhaps even that it had one—as all evidence of a broader cosmos outside of one’s own galaxy will have forever disappeared.”, THE NEW YORKER / Donald Trump’s Worst Deal by Adam Davidson, “The President helped build a hotel in Azerbaijan that appears to be a corrupt operation engineered by oligarchs tied to Iran’s Revolutionary Guard.”, THE NEW YORKER / The Gay Men Who Fled Chechnya’s Purge by Masha Gessen, “Stories of those who survived detention and torture and are now living undercover in Putin’s Russia.”, THE NEW YORK TIMES MAGAZINE / Aleppo After the Fall by Robert F. Worth, “The Syrian tragedy started in a moment of deceptive simplicity, when the peaceful protesters of the 2011 Arab Spring seemed destined to inherit the future. Others prefer the language of the body: a country is an organic whole, its component parts are limbs.
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